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When a perspective shift on pigs does happen, our view of food could correspondingly transform. During my call to Montgomery about Christopher Hogwood, she imagined addressing a notional pig consumer: ‘That ham sandwich you’re eating could have grown up and done as much for some other family as Christopher did for me, but instead became a passing flavour on somebody’s tongue. It just seems such a sad, terrible waste.’ Here is a 180-degree turn away from the view of a pig’s life as existing to please, even for a moment, human beings. Once this perspective-change happens, eating a pig looks like what it is: an ‘absurd, criminal waste of a life for just one meal’, in the apt words of the Swiss primatologist Christophe Boesch.
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